Old-Vienna Hamantaschen: A Recipe and the Problem of Eating the Enemy. Purim, Power, and the Limits of Catharsis (Vegan)

Macro shot of a triangular vegan hamantasch with a sharp, pale shortcrust edges and a dark, concentrated poppy seed filling, dusted with powdered sugar on a wire cooling rack.
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Old-Vienna Hamantaschen are more than a pastry. They are a story of power, survival, and the uneasy thrill of “eating the enemy.” This vegan recipe lets you taste history while reflecting on the limits of catharsis, the ghosts of Purim, and why even our enemies deserve care. Roll the dough, fill the pockets, and step into a centuries-old conversation that is at once sweet, dark, and deeply human.

[Jump to the Recipe]

Purim: The Ink, the Flour, and the Machine

We sit down to eat a triangle of dough filled with poppy seeds as if we were not celebrating a narrow escape that ended in a massive, terrifying bloodbath. It is the peculiar alchemy of the Jewish kitchen, this whole vays-ikh-vus of a stew, that we take a story of state-sponsored extermination and turn it into a delicious pastry.1 We call them Hamantashen, Haman’s pockets in Yiddish or oznei haman, Haman’s ears in Hebrew, as if by consuming the anatomy of the antagonist we might finally digest the trauma of the diaspora.

The sweetness of the mohn, the stuff we cram inside, is a distraction from the ninth chapter of Megillat Esther. There is no other way to say it. According to the text, we celebrate the preemptive strike that left 75,000 Persians dead in the streets2. This is where our memory becomes blurry and sticky. We dress the children as Queen Esther or Mordechai, and we encourage them to get loud, and we blot out the name of a man who has been dead for millennia. Yet we rarely discuss the terrifying logistics of the victory. It is a reactionary fantasy of the highest order. The oppressed do not just survive. They become the machine of the state. They receive the king’s signet ring and the permission to kill, and the party is a mask for a massacre.3 It is a carnival of the grotesque4 where the costumes allow us to pretend we are not capable of the same brutality we narrowly avoided.

The Trap of Immutable Law

Look past the carnage to the legalistic trap5 of the Medes and Persians, where a law, once sealed with the signet ring, becomes an immutable god.6 The 75,000 deaths were not a choice of malice but the mathematical remainder of a state that made its own destruction irrevocable. In this light, the preemptive strike was a desperate legal loophole, a bloody administrative necessity to counter a decree that could not be retracted. The sweetness of the dough is the relief of finding the one clause in the contract that allows you to keep breathing.

We have to be careful not to treat the preemptive strike as a simple reversal of power, because in the Megillah, the Jews are not just the state, they are a paramilitary force operating under a fickle Persian king who could change his mind before the poppyseed even settles.7

Ink or Blood?

We must be careful with our historical projections, for the blood in the streets of Shushan is perhaps more ink than hemoglobin. Historians will tell you that the massacre is a literary trope, a bit of Persian-era fan fiction designed to soothe the nerves of a fragile minority, yet the psychic reality of the slaughter remains. It is a mythohistorical trauma that we re-enact with rolling pins. We are baking a defense mechanism. For 2,000 years of wandering, this massacre existed only in the ink, a subversion of power for those who had none, a dream of hitting back when the world was hitting you.8 Purim was a carnival for the weak, not a parade for the strong, for a people with a state, a military, and a police.

The 75,000 figure is a counter-pogrom of the mind,9 10 aimed at the enemies who held the original decree, making it a literary revenge against the very machinery of the state.11 We now apply 21st-century sovereign ethics to a text written for people with zero state power, and we get it all mixed up. We confuse the ink with the actual policy. And anyway, we treat the massacre as a static historical fact, when the Megillah is a carnivalesque subversion where the hyperbole is the point.

The Problem with “Powerless”

Yet the trope of the powerless Diaspora needs interrogation. If we look at the dating of the text, we see a community that was not merely dreaming because they were actually rehearsing. From the military colony at Elephantine12 to the later, jagged violence of the Kitos War,13 the ink of the Megillah often mirrored a very real, very lethal paramilitary capacity. The 75,000 figure might be hyperbole, but it was hyperbole written by people who knew how to sharpen a blade as well as a quill.

This literary revenge functions as a ritualized exhaustion of violence. The Purim-fest was historically a safety valve, a way for the powerless to vent subterranean rage into a cookie. Still, the assumption that the massacre of 75,000 was a simple counter-pogrom of the mind born of 2,000 years of powerlessness would be anachronistic. If we look at the dating of the text, many scholars suggest the Megillah was composed in the late Persian or early Hellenistic period, a time when Jewish communities actually did possess significant local agency and military capacity in the Diaspora.14 It wasn’t a dream of the weak, it was a warning from the newly capable.

This “warning” is wrapped in the robes of a farce. Some scholars remind us that the Megillah is a diaspora comedy, a carnival of errors where the king is a fool and the laws are absurd. To read the 75,000 deaths as a literal policy directive might be to fall for the very trap the author set by mistaking a literary grand guignol for a military manifesto.15 If it is a satire, then the violence is not a blueprint but a burlesque, a way to laugh at the impossible rather than to plan for the inevitable. Are we propping up the corpse of a ghost? The text insists the Jews only stood for their lives after the state had already sharpened the axe.

The Alchemy of the Cookie

By turning the enemy into a cookie, the violence is neutralized, not celebrated. It is a détournement of the highest order.16 We do not eat Haman to become him, we eat him so that he ceases to exist as anything other than a crumb on a tablecloth.

Look closer at this mechanism, for every safety valve requires a medium through which to vent. When the rage of the powerless is channeled into the domestic sphere, into the kneading of dough and the pinching of corners, it performs a necessary catharsis. Yet we ignore the terrifying reality of what happens when that valve vents into a vacuum. For two thousand years, the steam hissed into the empty air of the diaspora, a harmless dissipation of ghosts.

Though this vacuum held a paradox, inasmuch as the diaspora was never a vacuum, but a highly regulated space where the safety valve of Purim was often monitored by the host culture, making the venting a performance of submission as much as rebellion.17 18 19

When the Vacuum Becomes a Pressure Cooker

When this vacuum is replaced by the solid architecture of a state, the valve no longer releases pressure. It creates a pressure cookery of the soul. The ritualized aggression, once a symbolic survival strategy, becomes trapped within the heavy lid of sovereignty. In this pressurized chamber, the distinction between the ink of the Megillah and the blood of the street begins to warp. The literary revenge starts to feel insufficient, and the violence, stripped of its carnivalesque mask, becomes the only thing that tastes real.

This leap from “ink” to “blood” is perhaps too neat a binary. Jewish history was never just a quietist wait for the Messiah interrupted by a cookie.20 Even in the diaspora, we were always messy neighbors to power, navigating military capacity and local agency long before the modern state arrived to claim the monopoly on violence.21 The pressure cooker didn’t just appear in 1948. It has been simmering since the first Jew realized that the King’s favor is as fickle as the weather in the Pale.22

We are no longer just neutralizing an ancient enemy with a rolling pin. We are simmering in a historical resentment that, when denied its symbolic exit, threatens to melt the very pot that contains it. For the religious consciousness, the mitzvah of the feast is the ultimate reality, and the violence is merely the unwanted rind. For some, the rind is exactly what gives the fruit its structural integrity and sharpest flavor.23 The mitzvah is not the reality here, it is the seasoning.

The Performance for the Master

It is a bitter pill to swallow, this idea that our little carnival was ever a performance for the master. We think we are being so bold, blotting out the name of Haman with our wooden noisemakers, but for centuries, the local Prince or the Bishop watched from the balcony with a smirk. They allowed the Jews their one day of “rebellion” because it acted as a controlled burn, a sanctioned theatrical tantrum that ultimately reinforced who held the real keys to the city. By venting our rage into a cookie under the watchful eye of the authorities, we were essentially signing a contract that said, “We will scream in the synagogue today so that we remain quiet in the marketplace tomorrow.” It was a rebellion that knew its place, a scream that stayed behind the ghetto walls, confirming the very power structure it pretended to mock.24

To say it was only a sanctioned tantrum is to ignore the blood that actually dried on the cobbles. This was no mere safety valve in the Purim Vintz of Frankfurt or the streets of Saragossa. In those moments, the “as if” of the Megillah became a dry run for communal defense, a brief, flickering instance where the theatrical rage provided the blueprint for actual physical survival against a local decree.25

This “controlled burn” was not always so tidy. History is messy, and the steam from this safety valve often scalded the neighbors. For centuries, the Purim-fest was not just a theatrical tantrum but a recurring flashpoint where the symbolic “hitting back” occasionally spilled out of the cookie and into the street, leading to actual riots and counter-violence. It was a dangerous game of “as if” that sometimes forgot it was a performance, proving that even a sanctioned rebellion can accidentally burn the theater down.26

Then, the theater closes, and the walls come down. If the venting was a performance of submission, then the move to sovereignty isn’t just a pressure change. It is the terrifying moment the actor realizes they are now the director and they have forgotten the original script. The actor’s ego might assume that the performer of the diaspora knew they were performing submission, but the shtetl ghosts tell us that they felt they were truly fighting cosmic wars in the heavens.27

The Shape of the Thing

Nonetheless, even the shape of the thing, the pastry, is a dissimulation we repeat. We imagine these triangles as ancient artifacts, but the Hamantashen is a late European interloper, a Yiddish corruption of the German Mohntasche, the poppy pocket, which became Haman-tasche through a bit of linguistic sleight of hand that would make a Jesuit blush.28

We must be careful not to overspiritualize the pantry. Before it was a midrashic nod to Esther’s palace diet of seeds (a post-hoc pious justification),29 the mohn was simply the cold reality of the winter larder. It was the only thing left in the sack that hadn’t rotted by Adar. We turned a necessity of poverty into a ritual of resistance, rebranding the cheap, shelf-stable debris of the Ashkenazi winter as a metaphysical sedative.

The Hungarian Ghost

Look closer at the ghost in the kitchen. They always talk about the German root of the Hamantaschen, but they ignore the mákos táska, that Hungarian specter that carries the actual structural weight of a dual monarchy and a collapsed empire on its buttery shoulders. In the context of the land-use history of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, poppy cultivation was a regulated, almost sacred state industry.30 The mákos táska is the true ancestor, it brings with it the opiate nature of the poppy itself.31 In the Hungarian-Jewish context, mohn was never just a cheap filler for the poor. It was a crop of cultural intoxication, a dense, black paste that hints at a pharmacological numbing of the diaspora’s nerves. We are not just eating a cookie. We are consuming a sedative for the soul.

And how is it possible that these Yiddish pockets became Oznei Haman, Haman’s ears, in the Hebrew tongue? It is a magnificent, clumsy stumble of translation. The Hebrew speakers took the Yiddish taschen and, perhaps influenced by the fried dough ears of the medieval Italian orecchie di Aman, decided that a pocket was an ear. They turned a simple pastry garment into a piece of gruesome anatomy. They forgot the pun on mohn and replaced it with a surgical trophy.32

Yet, this linguistic theft has deeper, dustier roots than a Zionist rebranding. Long before the Mohntasche arrived, the Sephardic and Italian Jews were already frying their Orejitas and Orecchie, which were actual strips of dough twisted into the shape of a villain’s cartilage. The Hebrew Oznei Haman wasn’t a modern surgical trophy because it was a linguistic inheritance from the Mediterranean and a literal mockery that the Yiddish pocket was eventually forced to inhabit.33

Triangles and Tricornes

Even the triangularity of the thing is a retroactive imposition of meaning. We are told they represent Haman’s three-cornered hat, an 18th-century European fashion choice that didn’t even exist in ancient Persia at all. Yet the triangle itself is an intentional and decorative choice rather than a structural necessity. In the world of pâte sablée, a triangle is actually a liability because the three points create high-stress seams prone to leaking.34 If the goal were purely to contain the filling, a round bun or a crimped semi-circle would offer a far more secure seal. The triangle is a performance, a shape chosen for its symbolism. We have retrofitted this deliberate geometry with the millinery of a villain to give our snacks a theological weight, though that weight was perhaps there from the beginning.

The shift from Tasche (pocket) to Ozen (ear) isn’t just a stumble, it represents a fundamental shift from a domestic, culinary naming convention to a liturgical, violent one. We are eating an anachronism, whether as a tricorne or ears. The chronology is a mess because the Italian orecchie di Aman existed for centuries as a cruel and literal culinary mockery. These deep-fried dough strips were shaped like twisted ears and born of Roman and Sephardic traditions of eating the limbs of the villain. Hebrew speakers called them Oznei Haman because that is exactly what they were shaped to be.35

Then came the Ashkenazi innovation: the German Mohntasche, the poppy pocket. The name itself was a linguistic joke, a Viennese pun that turned Mohn (poppy) into Haman through phonetic similarity. It wasn’t named for what it contained but for what it sounded like, which was a very specific kind of burlesque and a domestic pun that became a ritual.36

The linguistic merger happened through the slow, tectonic shifts of Jewish migration rather than a sudden decree by the maskilim or a clever invention by Ben-Yehuda. As the Yiddish speakers of the North encountered the Hebrew texts and Mediterranean traditions of the South, the “ears” of the old world began to haunt the “pockets” of the new. By the time the modern Hebrew revival gained momentum in the 20th century, the ancient Italian name Oznei Haman simply fully absorbed the Ashkenazi structure. The triangular Mohntasche now carries the violent trophy-name of the Italian ear, even though it looks nothing like one. The Oznei Haman we know today is a hybrid monster: a German-Yiddish body with a medieval Italian name, its violent etymology amplified through centuries of linguistic drift and modern nationalist rebranding. We insist on this marriage of Hungarian seeds and ancient ears, a chronological inversion that makes the head spin.37

Seeds of Darkness

This evolution wasn’t just some accident. It was a specific socio-economic adaptation to the availability of seeds versus expensive fruits. We used the seeds because we were poor, yes, but we also used them because they contain the darkness we were already feeling. The use of poppy seeds in Purim pastries was specifically tied to the legend that Queen Esther ate only seeds and nuts to keep kosher in the palace of Ahasverus.38 It wasn’t just poverty.39 It was a ritualized performance of dietary resistance. By treating poppy as just a seed, we would miss the systemic critique of how a minority uses intoxicating foods to process the trauma of the massive, terrifying bloodbath.

Of course, one must admit that the Papaver somniferum in our pantry is a neutered ghost of its wild cousins. The state-regulated poppies of the Empire were bred for oil and seed, not for the stupor of the poppy-den.40 41The “numbing” I speak of is perhaps more metaphysical than pharmacological, a culinary placebo where the heavy, black paste provides the texture of oblivion without the actual morphine. We are eating the aesthetic of a sedative, a symbolic dulling of the edge that allows us to swallow the sharpest parts of the Megillah without choking.42

Recipe as Order

What is a recipe if not an attempt to impose order on a chaotic and violent history? In the cinema of our collective consciousness, Purim is the ultimate revenge flick.43 It is Tarantino’s Inglourious Basterds in Shushan. The pastry itself is a structural marvel because you force it into a shape that represents the enemy. There is something really cynical about biting into the ear of a genocidal vizier while the wine flows and the world outside remains just as precarious as it was in the days of Ahasuerus.

The mohn filling is perhaps the most honest part of the whole affair. It is black and dense and slightly bitter if you do not add enough sugar. It represents the hidden nature of the miracle. Hester Panim. The hiding of the face.44 God is nowhere in the text, and there is only politics and sex and palace intrigue and the eventual slaughter of thousands. We eat the darkness. We bake it at 180°C until the edges are golden.

The Realist Reading

There are those who argue that the violence in Esther is not a reactionary fantasy at all, but a necessary mise-en-abyme of the human condition. The Megillah becomes a realistic political treatise on the necessity of taking power in an indifferent and even hostile world.45 From this perspective, the 75,000 deaths are not a grotesque carnival but a sober recognition that in the theater of history, if you do not hold the signet ring, you are the one in the mass grave.46 The buttery pastry is not a mask for a massacre, it is the celebration of the end of the victim-identity entirely.

One could even argue, with a certain cold realism, that the 75,000 is not a massacre at all but a masterclass in deterrence.47 The text is precise: they struck only those who sought their hurt. From this perspective, the sweetness of the dough isn’t a distraction from a bloodbath, but the legitimate, hard-won joy of a people who realized that the only thing standing between them and the mass grave was the willingness to hold the signet ring themselves. It is the taste of not being a corpse.48

The Blur of the Ad-D’lo-Yada

And yet, there is the Ad-D’lo-Yada. The tradition demands we drink until we cannot distinguish between “Cursed be Haman” and “Blessed be Mordechai.”49 It is a terrifying spiritual requirement.50 It suggests that at the core of this reactionary party, there is a blurring of the binary, an admission that the line between the victim and the executioner is thinner than the shortcrust pastry we roll out, and probably crumblier than the sablé, the sandy texture of the dough.51 This requirement from the Talmud is not a modern neurosis, but an ancient demand to lose the ego, to let the self dissolve until the hero and the shmatte are just two sides of the same messy human condition.

The Modern License

This brings us to the modern neurosis of the festival, where the victimhood of Shushan is weaponized to justify the power of the present. We are warned that in every generation, there is a Haman, a logic that transforms a specific historical anxiety into a permanent, ahistorical license for aggression.52 We celebrate the moment the victim becomes the victimizer, and we call it liberation. We have moved from the vulnerability of the diaspora to a state where the signet ring is always on our finger and the preemptive strike is no longer a literary trope but a policy directive.53 We use the memory of Haman to silence the ethical demands of the present, convinced that our survival depends on the very brutality we once feared.54 We pretend that the sweetness of the dough justifies the bitterness of the history. This succinct description of the power dynamics in the transition to the state misses the cinéma of it, because the state is not just a pot, it is a projector that turns the ink of ancient trauma into a widescreen reality.

If You’re Still Hungry: The Must-Read List

Peter Beinart, Being Jewish After the Destruction of Gaza: A Reckoning (2025).
This is the book that refuses the comfort of survival as a moral alibi. Beinart reads the Book of Esther not as a fairy tale of rescue, but as a warning label: what happens when a revenge fantasy acquires an army, a border, and a legal system. Purim, in his hands, stops being a celebration of having lived and becomes an interrogation of what we are now capable of doing to others in the name of never dying again.

Elliott Horowitz, Reckless Rites: Purim and the Legacy of Jewish Violence (2006).
The book that ruins the innocence of the noisemaker. Horowitz documents how Purim has repeatedly served as a licensed suspension of restraint, a ritual moment when symbolic violence sometimes slid into real blood on real streets. From medieval Europe to Hebron in 1994, he shows how the carnival can forget it is a performance and what happens when the mask refuses to come off.

Jacqueline Rose, The Question of Zion (2005).
A psychoanalytic autopsy of a political dream that never wakes up. Rose traces how the unresolved trauma of the Diaspora hardens into a permanent state of emergency, where law becomes fate and fear masquerades as necessity. Her work helps explain how an ancient sense of siege can survive the acquisition of overwhelming power and why the ghosts do not leave when the walls go up.

Michael Walzer, Exodus and Revolution (1985).
Not about Purim, but essential to it. Walzer maps the ethical transformation that occurs when a people of text and movement becomes a people of land, borders, and enforcement. His “politics of the wilderness” offers a way to think about the cost of moving from ink to architecture, which is the transition from a story that sustains life to a system that must decide how life is taken.

Omer Bartov, Genocide, the Holocaust and Israel‑Palestine: First‑Person History in Times of Crisis (2023).
A rigorous examination of how the Holocaust, other genocides, and the conflict in Israel‑Palestine are narrated and remembered through local and personal histories, challenging abstract or detaching frameworks and urging historical empathy grounded in lived experience, which makes it a vital complement to any reflection on violence, state power, and ethical memory.

Happy Purim!

Chag Purim Sameach ! חג פורים שמח

A freilichen Pirim ! א פרייליכן פורים

The “Honest Gourmet” Hamantaschen Old-Vienna-Style Recipe

(A Vegan Shortcrust Pâte Sablée)

The Very Best Gourmet Hamantash Recipe Out There, No Kidding! Try it and leave a comment!

This is a pastry that neutralizes aggression and cruelty, now in vegan form, because some violence belongs only in history and literature. If the Megillah teaches us anything, it is that even our enemies deserve care. This recipe is a reminder that all living beings should be treated with the same attention and respect we wish for ourselves.

The Emulsion Base

  • 45ml Full-fat soy milk (Heated precisely to 90°F/32°C)
  • 1.5 tsp Soy lecithin powder
  • 1 tsp Vanilla extract
  • 1 tsp Dark Rum, in Vienna: Inländer Rum (The alcohol is chemically necessary!)

The Dry Components

  • 300g White Pastry Flour (In Vienna, get T480 Glatt). In a pinch, use 225g all-purpose and 75g cake flour, or Italian tipo 00 flour (the “blue” bags meant for pasta/cakes, not pizza!)
  • 50g Finely ground almond flour (To provide the fatty “tender” mouthfeel)
  • 90g Powdered sugar
  • 1/2 tsp Salt
  • Zest of 1/2 organic lemon

The Fat

  • 180g High-quality vegan butter (Block): Must be min. 82% fat. Check the nutritional label. If the fat content is lower, the water will turn your dough into a puddle in the oven, and the “shroud” of sugar will have nothing to cling to but failure.

The Filling

  • 250g Poppy seed filling (Veganize our classic poppy seed filling recipe by substituting the honey with maple or date syrup and replacing the butter with vegan margarine.)
  • and/or 250g Powidl (Austrian Plum Butter) or any other filling of your liking.
  • Additional powdered sugar: For the final “shroud.”

*

The Instructions

  1. The Emulsion: Whisk lecithin into 90°F/32°C soy milk, rum, and vanilla. Let it hydrate for 10 minutes until it forms a thick, viscous slurry.
  2. The Sablage: Pulse the flour, almond flour, sugar, salt, and zest with cold, cubed vegan butter until it resembles coarse sand.
  3. The Binding: Add the slurry. Pulse until the dough barely clumps. Do not overwork.
  4. The Purgatory: Wrap and chill for at least 6 hours. This allows the T480 to hydrate fully without egg assistance.
  5. The Shaping: Roll to 3mm, cut 8cm circles, fill with Powidl or poppy seed filling, and pinch.
  6. The Thermal Shock: Freeze the shaped triangles for 20 minutes immediately before baking to prevent a structural blowout.
  7. The Bake:
Oven TypeTemperatureEstimated Time
Conventional Static Heat
(One rack at a time!)
185°C20 Minutes
Convection (Fan/Forced Air)175°C15 Minutes

Warning: Do not chase the gold. They should never turn golden-brown. If you wait for a color change, you will over-bake the cookies into ceramic-hard shards and scorch the almond flour, which turns aggressively bitter when exposed to prolonged heat.

  • The “Done” Signal: The cookies are finished when the edges feel set/firm to a light touch and the very bottom edge has the faintest, ghostly tan.
  • The Result of Over-baking: You will lose the melt-in-the-mouth texture, replacing it with a dry, dusty crunch that even the best filling cannot rescue.

The Finish: Allow to cool completely. Dust heavily with powdered sugar to create a “shroud” that hides the pale, anemic complexion of the egg-free dough.

The final shroud: heavy dusting of the vegan sablé serves as the last aesthetic mercy, obscuring the structural anxieties of the dough before the “must-read” reckoning begins.

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  1. Elliott Horowitz (Reckless Rites: Purim and the Legacy of Jewish Violence). This is the definitive source for the “violent” history of Purim and the symbolism of “destroying” Haman through food and effigy. Horowitz’s work is the gold standard for this specific critique of Purim’s darker side. ↩︎
  2. Megillat Esther 9:16. The text distinguishes between the 500 killed in Shushan and the 75,000 in the provinces. Most scholars (e.g., Jon Levenson) view this as literary hyperbole rather than census data. ↩︎
  3. Adele Berlin (The JPS Bible Commentary: Esther). Berlin notes the legalistic nature of the Megillah because the violence is framed as a “clash of decrees.” The transition from hunted to hunters is the central structural irony of the book. ↩︎
  4. Mikhail Bakhtin (Rabelais and His World). The “mask for a massacre” concept mirrors Bakhtin’s theory of the carnival as a subversion of power. This is a standard lens for analyzing Purim’s “topsy-turvy” (v’nahafoch hu) nature. ↩︎
  5. Shemaryahu Talmon (Literary Studies in the Hebrew Bible). Talmon argues that the Scroll is an “historicized wisdom tale” where the “trap” is the rigid structure of the court itself. The conflict is resolved through sechel and cleverness (metis) within the system rather than a supernatural miracle from outside. ↩︎
  6. Megillat Esther 1:19, 8:8. The “Laws of the Medes and Persians” are presented as irrevocable. While the Megillah insists on this rigidity, Greek historians like Herodotus suggest the King was more of a law unto himself, though he remained bound by the weight of Persian custom. ↩︎
  7. Megillat Esther 9:1-5. The Jews are described as “gathering” and “standing for their lives” (V’ya’amdu al nafsham) within the King’s provinces. They are authorized by royal decree to arm themselves, but they remain subjects of the crown rather than a sovereign, independent army. ↩︎
  8. Elliott Horowitz (Reckless Rites). Horowitz argues that Purim allowed Jews to “hit back” symbolically through ritual and effigy when they could not do so physically. This is the definitive study on the “violent” rituals of Purim as a response to real-world powerlessness. ↩︎
  9. Jon D. Levenson (Esther: A Commentary). Levenson notes that the Book of Esther is a “comedy of reversal” where the scale of the victory is meant to be absurdly large to satisfy the reader’s sense of justice. The 75,000 figure is widely seen by scholars as a literary device to mirror the “totality” of the threat Haman posed. ↩︎
  10. Bezalel Porten (Archives from Elephantine). Documents from actual Persian-era Jewish military colonies show a much more mundane, often difficult, relationship with neighbors, contrasting with the Megillah’s dramatic “total victory.” This highlights the discrepancy between the historical reality of Jewish life in Persia and the Megillah’s stylized reimagining of their political agency. ↩︎
  11. Yoram Hazony (The Dawn: The Political Teachings of the Book of Esther). Hazony explores how the Megillah serves as a manual for Jewish political survival in a foreign court where power is fickle. While Hazony reads it more “politically” than “carnivalesque,” his work supports the idea that the text is about navigating a system from the bottom up. ↩︎
  12. Bezalel Porten (The Elephantine Papyri). These records prove Jews served as an armed frontier garrison for the Persians. This contradicts the “powerless” trope because Jews were often the “teeth” of the empire. ↩︎
  13. Eusebius (Ecclesiastical History). Describes the massive Jewish uprisings in Cyrene, Egypt, and Cyprus against Rome. This serves as a critical rebuttal to the idea that Jews were incapable of reaching the 75,000 figure. ↩︎
  14. Elias Bickerman (Four Strange Books of the Bible). Bickerman argues that the Megillah reflects the political savvy of the Hellenistic Jewish elite. Most scholars agree that the text reflects a period of significant Jewish socio-political integration and agency. ↩︎
  15. Adele Berlin (Esther: The JPS Bible Commentary). Berlin emphasizes the “carnivalesque” and “burlesque” nature of the Persian court in the text. The violence is a literary performance rather than a policy manual. ↩︎
  16. Claude Lévi-Strauss (The Raw and the Cooked). While not specific to Purim, his theory of “cooking” as a way to transform the “raw” threat into a cultural object supports the détournement argument. Turning a villain into a snack is the ultimate cultural “taming.” ↩︎
  17. Israel Jacob Yuval (Two Nations in Your Womb). Yuval explores how Jewish rituals were often shaped by the “gaze” of the Christian majority, forcing a performance that balanced internal rage with external safety. The “venting” was never into a vacuum but into a “highly regulated space.” ↩︎
  18. Ruth Langer (Cursing the Christians?). Documents how Jewish liturgical expressions of anger were censored (by both Jews and Christians) to prevent real-world violence. The transition from “cursing” to “eating” is a move toward a safer, more domestic form of venting. ↩︎
  19. Salo Baron (A Social and Religious History of the Jews). Baron’s critique of the “lachrymose conception of Jewish history” aligns with the view that the Diaspora was a complex political space, not just a static state of powerlessness. ↩︎
  20. David Nirenberg (Communities of Violence). Nirenberg’s study of medieval Iberia shows that Jews, Christians, and Muslims were constantly negotiating power through “ritualized” and real violence. Jewish history was never “quietist” or a “vacuum.” ↩︎
  21. Max Weber (Politics as a Vocation). Weber’s definition of the state is the “monopoly of the legitimate use of physical force.” I explore what happens when a diaspora ritual meets this monopoly. ↩︎
  22. Yosef Yerushalmi (Zakhor: Jewish History and Jewish Memory). Yerushalmi discusses how Jews relied on royal protection (the King’s favor) rather than general law, a precarious existence that fostered specific survivalist traits. This “simmering” thus began long before 1948. ↩︎
  23. Elliott Horowitz (Reckless Rites). Horowitz documents how certain Jewish factions viewed the “violence” of Purim not as an unwanted byproduct, but as an essential part of the identity that kept the community resilient. This is the “rind” mentioned, which is the sharp flavor that defines the fruit for some. ↩︎
  24. Israel Jacob Yuval (Two Nations in Your Womb). Yuval argues that Jewish rituals of “cursing” and symbolic violence were tolerated by Christian authorities as long as they remained inside the synagogue/ghetto. This is the “contract” of staying quiet in the marketplace. ↩︎
  25. Historical Record of the Fettmilch Uprising. This event led to the expulsion and eventual celebratory return of the Jews, commemorated as a “Local Purim.” This is a “dry run for communal defense.” ↩︎
  26. Elliott Horowitz (Reckless Rites). Documents how Purim rituals (like burning Haman in effigy) often led to accusations of ritual murder or real street battles with neighbors. The “theatrical tantrum” often burned the theater down. ↩︎
  27. Gershom Scholem (Major Trends in Jewish Mysticism). Scholem explores how the Diaspora Jew lived in a “dual reality,” where physical powerlessness was offset by the belief that their rituals influenced the Sefirot (divine realms). The “shtetl ghosts” believed they were fighting cosmic wars. ↩︎
  28. Gil Marks (Encyclopedia of Jewish Food). Marks traces the etymology to 18th-century Germany, where Mohn (poppy) sounded like Haman. This seems to be the consensus among culinary historians. ↩︎
  29. Talmud Bavli, Megillah 13a. Discusses Daniel (and by extension Esther) eating zeronim (seeds/legumes) to avoid non-kosher meat. This is the religious “veneer” applied to the existing winter crop. ↩︎
  30. Magyar Mezőgazdasági Múzeum (Hungarian Agricultural Museum). Records show that poppy cultivation was a pillar of the Austro-Hungarian rural economy, regulated for both food and morphine. ↩︎
  31. George Lang (The Cuisine of Hungary). Traces the evolution of filled yeast pastries (Táska) as a central element of Hungarian-Jewish festive life. ↩︎
  32. Ariel Toaff (Love, Work, and Death: Jewish Life in Medieval Umbria). Documents the medieval Italian custom of frying dough strips called “Haman’s Ears.” This is the “literal mockery” that predates the Ashkenazi triangle. ↩︎
  33. Hayyim Nahman Bialik (attributed). Popular lore suggests modern Hebrew speakers (and potentially Bialik himself) helped solidify the “Oznei Haman” term by conflating the Yiddish Taschen with the existing Mediterranean Oznei. While the shift began earlier, the “clumsy stumble” became official during the Hebrew revival. ↩︎
  34. Professional Pastry Standards. Triangular folds in shortcrust dough create “stress points” at the corners where steam and fat escape. ↩︎
  35. Ariel Toaff (Love, Work, and Death: Jewish Life in Medieval Umbria). Documents the medieval Italian custom of frying dough strips called “Haman’s Ears” long before the triangle appeared. This is the “literal mockery” that predates the Ashkenazi triangle. ↩︎
  36. Gil Marks (Encyclopedia of Jewish Food). Confirms the name Hamantaschen was a phonetic play on the German Mohntaschen (poppy pockets). This is the “linguistic joke” that became ritualized. ↩︎
  37. Salo Baron (A Social and Religious History of the Jews). Discusses the constant cross-pollination between Sephardic and Ashkenazi customs in Mediterranean trade hubs like Venice and Trieste. ↩︎
  38. Talmud Bavli, Megillah 13a. Cites Daniel 1:12-16 as the precedent for eating seeds (zeronim) to maintain ritual purity. This is the core religious justification for the mohn. ↩︎
  39. Gil Marks (Encyclopedia of Jewish Food). Marks confirms that while poppy was a “poor man’s filling,” it was elevated to ritual status through the Esther-seed connection. ↩︎
  40. Imperial Commission (Codex Alimentarius Austriacus, 1891). Sets Standards for Poppy Purity. ↩︎
  41. A. von Fruwirth (Die Züchtung der landwirtschaftlichen Kulturpflanzen, 1910). Documents the trade preference for Schließmohn, which is a poppy variety with a “closed” capsule that never opens naturally, physically locking the seeds inside to protect them from the opium-rich sap during harvest. ↩︎
  42. Elliott Horowitz (Reckless Rites). Discusses the “dark side” of Purim celebrations and the use of food to soften the blow of a narrative about a massacre. ↩︎
  43. Yael Zerubavel (Recovered Roots: Collective Memory and the Making of Israeli National Tradition). Discusses how Jewish holidays are “plotted” as national dramas of survival and vengeance. ↩︎
  44. Talmud Bavli, Chullin 139b. Asks: “Where is Esther indicated in the Torah?” and answers with Devarim – Deuteronomy 31:18 (Haster Astir Panai “I will surely hide My face”) ↩︎
  45. Yoram Hazony (The Dawn: The Political Teachings of the Book of Esther). Hazony argues that the book is a manual for the acquisition and use of political power in a world without God’s overt intervention. ↩︎
  46. Hannah Arendt (The Origins of Totalitarianism). Her analysis of “rightless” people mirrors your “mass grave” argument: without state protection, a minority is always at risk. ↩︎
  47. Megillat Esther 9:2. Textual analysis of “No man could stand before them” (V’ish lo amad bifneihem). The text emphasizes that the fear of the Jews fell upon the provinces as a stabilizing force. ↩︎
  48. Michael Walzer (Regicide and Revolution). Explores how oppressed groups must transition to “sovereign actors” to survive history. ↩︎
  49. Talmud Bavli, Megillah 7b. “A person is obligated to drink on Purim until he does not know (Ad lo yada) the difference between cursed be Haman and blessed be Mordechai.” This is the foundational law of Purim. ↩︎
  50. Rabbi Shneur Zalman of Liadi (Torah Or). Argues that on Purim, one reaches a level of “Supernal Will” where the distinction between “good” and “evil” is superseded. This text provides the mystical context. ↩︎
  51. Primo Levi (The Drowned and the Saved). Levi’s analysis of the “Grey Zone” explores how extreme systems blur moral categories. Levi’s “Grey Zone” is the definitive secular-intellectual parallel to this fragility of moral categories. ↩︎
  52. Saul Friedländer (Memory, History, and the Extermination of the Jews of Europe). Explores the danger of using historical trauma as an absolute moral compass for the present. ↩︎
  53. Yoram Hazony (The Dawn). Explicitly links the political maneuvers in Shushan to the requirements of modern sovereign defense. ↩︎
  54. Zygmunt Bauman (Modernity and the Holocaust). Discusses the “victim-to-victimizer” pipeline in the context of institutionalized power. This is the heart of the “modern neurosis”. ↩︎
Nino Shaye Weiss
As an unrestrained foodnik in Vienna — a city steeped in Jewish history and haunted by Freud — I use this non-profit blog to unearth the lost foodways of pre-Shoah Jewish Vienna while riffing on today’s culinary trends.

2 Comments

  1. This was a pretty interesting thread into the labyrinth of Purim. May I add another perspective?

    Jewish practice was once highly syncretistic. There are probably a lot of reasons for this, like hiding our religious practice from the powers that be, like, maybe gerim wanted to join us and so brought their own tradition into ours, and so on. Theodor Reik’s book “The Pagan Origins of Jewish Religious Practice” brilliantly recounts these themes.

    You didn’t mention that Esther, meaning “hidden” in Hebrew, might be a stand in for Astarte/Ishtar, the Goddess of the Moon and of Love in Persia? If that is correct, then the marriage of this “goddess” to the emperor also describes something to do with propagation of…something. A marriage between heaven and earth? Maybe. Not a Jewish concept but a common one in the mythologies of the middle east. The triangular pastry hiding black seeds…well, the triangle is an ancient symbol of Woman. The icon Tanit, located in Carthage (Tunis today) is a triangle with limbs. Poppy seeds are first and foremost seeds…can we see Purim as an example of a springtime fertility festival? We metaphorically eat the seeds of a fertility/love goddess while also elevating her to our saving queen, who pled for our lives? Nothing says salvation more than reproduction.

    As Sukkot, with its phallic lulav and vaguely voluptuous etrog, is, to me, clearly a fertility holiday as well, because Esther is, well, hidden, so might be the very pagan holiday that Purim subsumed. Female reproduction is hidden anyway, right up until birth, as we hide away the menstruous woman, cosset the pregnant woman (until modern times) and whisk her away to the company of other women to give birth…

    We drink ad lo-yoda perhaps because we are consumed not with rage but with lust, or perhaps with both rage and lust. We Jews have never really had guilt about sex. We have rules, but play by the rules, and you can have what you want, men and women alike. Very modern of us! Maybe eating the mohntasch/hamantasch/womb of Astarte, filled with ova, is unconsciously too much for us, and we drink so that we can, because it is outside the normal rules of sex and war. Lust can be for violence and lust can be for sex and maybe Purim is about both.

    1. Chana Batya, what a marvelous, subterranean dive into the flour! You have pulled back the shroud of powdered sugar to reveal something far more primal than my political anxieties. Also, Theodor Reik would have been delighted that someone finally brought him into the kitchen.

      The image of the Hamantasch as the womb of Astarte, as a triangular vessel for the fertility of the Diaspora, is both beautiful and genuinely unsettling. It fits perfectly with the Viennese obsession with what lies beneath the surface: if the mohn is a sedative for our political nerves, perhaps it is also a seed-bed for a far older, survivalist hunger. Your parallel with Sukkot’s lulav and etrog is sharp and I think you are absolutely right that we have collectively under-read the erotic grammar of the Jewish festival calendar.

      That said, I find I cannot fully let go of the enemy. Here is why: the luxury of a purely symbolic fertility reading – as intellectually seductive as it is – risks softening the ninth chapter of the Megillah into a harmless springtime allegory. It risks making Haman’s pocket into a goddess’s womb so gracefully that we forget it was also, quite literally, a signet ring and a body count. By keeping our focus on the act of eating the enemy, we are forced to acknowledge that the Haman we consume is not an external Persian ghost but a mirror, a reflection of our own very real capacity for state violence. We are not just fertilizing the future. We are digesting our own potential for brutality, and that digestion is uncomfortable for good reason.

      Furthermore, a radical reading of your own framework would argue that the enemy in the Megillah was never only Haman, but that it was the Binary itself. Vashti is the first figure who refuses to perform gender for the gaze of the state, the one who breaks the contract of the spectacle and pays for it. Esther is the passing subversive, the one who infiltrates the patriarchal machine precisely in order to dismantle its decrees from the inside. Seen this way, “eating the enemy” is not simply the consumption of a villain. Rather it is the ritual swallowing of the very concept of Father/King/Decree. We consume the structure of the Law itself in order to find the life-affirming seeds hidden within, which is, I think, exactly where your reading and mine finally meet.

      In the spirit of “V’nahafoch Hu”, perhaps we drink until the line between the fertility goddess and the genocidal vizier, between the womb and the weapon, between the ink and the blood, finally dissolves. You have helped me see that this vegan mürbeteig (sablé style) is doing more than one kind of work at once, and that the triangle, a liability by the standards of any sane pastry engineer, was always going to hold more meaning than filling.

      Chag Purim Sameach.

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