The full recipe follows this introduction—or jump ahead here if you’re in the kitchen already.
Unearthing the soulful essence of a Viennese classic, reimagined for modern, mindful kitchens and multi-day celebrations.
Following the enthusiastic reception of our classic beef goulash, a recipe lovingly honed to capture Vienna’s quintessential Austro-Hungarian spirit (which you can explore here: Goulash — Vienna’s Beef Stew: Recipe for the Best Uber-Authentic Austro-Hungarian Paprika Gravy Beef Ragoût), we now embark on an equally exciting, albeit plant-based, culinary journey. For those who, like me, find themselves increasingly drawn to the vitality and creativity of whole-food, plant-based eating, the question naturally arises: can a dish so deeply rooted in its hearty, meaty origins truly translate? My answer, with all the confidence of a well-used cast-iron pot, is an emphatic yes.
Conscious Cooking: Aligning Plates with Values
Beyond culinary curiosity, this shift towards plant-based cuisine is often rooted in a deeper commitment to ethical and environmental stewardship. The profound concerns surrounding industrial beef production – from animal welfare, a direct challenge to the Jewish prohibition against tza’ar ba’alei chayim (causing pain to living creatures), to its vast environmental footprint in terms of land, water, and greenhouse gas emissions – resonate profoundly with core Jewish values like tikkun olam (repairing the world) and bal tashchit (do not destroy or waste). Thus, crafting a vegan goulash becomes not just a culinary innovation but an act that thoughtfully aligns our plates with our conscience, extending our commitment to responsibility beyond the traditional kosher table to embrace a broader ecological awareness.
A Heritage of Adaptability: Goulash in Jewish Viennese Life
The inherent adaptability of goulash is, in itself, a testament to its enduring charm. From the Hungarian plains where it began its humble life as a herdsman’s soup, to the sophisticated Viennese salons where it acquired its refined gravy, goulash has always been a dish in flux, absorbing and reflecting the culinary landscapes it inhabits. The version we know today, the velvety Viennese gravy goulash, is in fact a distinct Austrian invention, a different dish from its Hungarian progenitor. It was in Vienna that Hungarian sweet paprika—a far cry from the often very hot paprika used in the original Hungarian goulash soup—met the Central European ideas of ragoût, a stewing technique borrowed from France and Italy. (See the full story in my article here.)
In Jewish Viennese homes, this adaptability proved particularly valuable. Goulash was a perfect fit for the rhythm of Shabbat and multi-day Yom Tov feasts like Sukkot: its flavor only deepens and mellows with each reheating, making it an ideal candidate for dishes prepared in advance and kept warm, or even served across several festive meals. This “getting better with age” quality is a cherished characteristic, making it a truly practical and utterly comforting staple for family gatherings, allowing hosts more time for spiritual contemplation and less time slaving over a hot stove. And for those navigating the delightful complexities of marrying culinary traditions from different sides of a family, a dish like goulash, versatile yet comforting, often provides a delicious common ground.
A Freudian Feast: The Psychology of a Paprika Stew
Goulash’s journey to becoming a Viennese archetype has a fascinating, even psychological, dimension. The very name is a corruption of the Hungarian word for cowboy, gulyás—a nod to its rustic, nationalistic roots. As the Viennese, including figures like Sigmund Freud who was known for his love of beef, embraced this dish, they subtly transformed it. They omitted the Hungarian elements of bell peppers, tomatoes, and lard, and instead made it a vehicle for beef and a thick, velvety gravy achieved with a 1:1 ratio of onions. This transformation, in a Freudian sense, represents Vienna’s appropriation and re-invention of Hungary’s national symbol, disarming the “red hot chili pepper” of Hungarian pride by preferring the sweet variety of paprika to the hot. It’s a culinary tale of political and cultural identity, and it’s perhaps no surprise that debates over goulash are often as ancient and fiery as the dish itself, with “I’m gonna turn you into goulash” being a well-known threat in this context. And, as with the Jewish cholent (Shabbat stew), its preparation and discussion are often a domain of men.
The Alchemy of Flavor: Crafting Vegan Depth
Our vegan goulash aims to capture this same comforting essence and historical integrity, sans the meat. We achieve that signature depth and richness using a careful alchemy of sautéed onions and paprika – still the bedrocks, mind you – and umami-rich miso and soy curls. (For a deeper dive into the fascinating history and varieties of paprika, this iconic spice, you can explore the detailed content in our original beef goulash post.)
Our secret alchemy: blooming sweet and hot paprika, dried marjoram, and freshly ground caraway seeds in a dry pan releases their full, aromatic flavor.
Soy curls are truly perfect here for their tender, shredded texture that absorbs the paprika-infused gravy beautifully and are considered a whole-food, plant-based (WFPB) option. If soy curls prove elusive to source, soy chunks (Sojaschnetzel) are an acceptable alternative, though it’s important to note that soy chunks often undergo more processing and are not strictly WFPB. The result, a thick, sweet, and tangy gravy without a single drop of meat or flour, is a testament to the power of a long, slow simmer. And yet, the dish is truly only completed not after its double cooling/reheating cycles, but with a final, careful finishing of flavor: a gentle stir of lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil, finished with a fresh garnish of herbs (parsley, marjoram, and/or cilantro) just before serving.
Serving with a Modern Twist: Permissible Indulgences
And here’s where the beauty of its plant-based evolution truly shines: for serving, a dollop of creamy plain unsweetened soy yogurt provides a wonderful, healthy counterpoint to the rich gravy. While it mimics the traditional sour cream found with some non-kosher goulash, it’s crucial to acknowledge this as a delightful, albeit extravagant, modern possibility for our vegan version. In the traditional kosher meaty goulash, such a dairy accompaniment would have been entirely unheard of, completely breaking the fleishig (meat) / milchig (dairy) divide that defined traditional Jewish culinary practice. Now, however, even for those who adhere to kosher dietary laws, it’s a new, permissible indulgence. Of course, the tried-and-true accompaniments like boiled potatoes or fluffy Semmelknödel remain perfect partners. And, in a nod to a classic Viennese staple known as Fiakergulasch (a goulash variation traditionally served to horse-drawn carriage drivers with a fried egg and frankfurters), a side of (admittedly not WFPB) vegan frankfurters can add a playful, and now historically-informed, twist to this meticulously authentic creation.
So, prepare your largest pot, sharpen your knives, and ready your palates. This vegan goulash is not just a recipe; it’s a continuation of a cherished culinary legacy, reimagined for a new era without sacrificing an ounce of its soulful appeal.
Hearty Vegan Soy Curl Goulash
Makes 10-12 servings
Ingredients:
6.3 oz (180g) soy curls or 10.6 oz (300g) TVP soy chunks
4 pounds (2 kg) yellow onions
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 head garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon dried marjoram
1 teaspoon freshly ground caraway seeds (preferably use a mortar)
1/2 cup Hungarian sweetpaprika (fresh and excellent quality)
Make Ahead: For the best flavor, prepare the goulash two days before serving. The flavors develop beautifully over time in the refrigerator. Reheating it gently twice over this period will further benefit its taste.
Rehydrate the soy curls: Place soy curls (or TVP) in a large bowl and cover with cold water for 15 to 30 minutes. Lift the curls (or TVP) out of the water to leave the dust and debris behind. Drain and squeeze gently.
Prepare the onions:The foundation of all great goulash: onions, slowly caramelized to a deep, golden-brown. This is where the magic begins.
Dice onions. Add to a large heavy-bottomed pot. No need for oil. Turn on the heat to medium, stirring to sweat the onions evenly until deeply golden brown and caramelized color. The timing will depend on the heat level and the pot. Be careful not to burn them, because this would result in a bitter goulash. If you see they dry out and start to stick to the bottom of the pot, add a splash of water and continue to stir.
Bloom the spices: In a dry pan, add the dried marjoram, caraway, and sweet and hot paprika. Stir constantly until fragrances develop nicely—you’ll notice the spices become more aromatic and may darken slightly. (This brief toasting releases and concentrates the essential oils within the spices, transforming their flavor from flat and dusty to warm and complex.) Immediately add this mixture to the pot with the caramelized onions. Stir well.
Assemble the stew: Add tomato paste, and garlic. Stir until fragrant and immediately add the soy curls (or TVP). Stir to coat the soy curls and deglaze with the water to barely cover the soy curls, approximately 2 liters. Add bay leaf. Dilute the 300g of white miso in some water, and add it to the stew. Season with freshly ground black pepper.
Cook stew:The goulash simmering away, deepening in color and flavor. Its velvety texture is a testament to the long, slow simmer.
Bring to a boil, cover, turn down and adjust the heat to a steady low simmer. Cook until the onions start to fall apart, about 1 hour.
Refrigerate: Let cool completely and refrigerate. Reheat gently after a day. Be careful not to scorch the bottom. Let cool again before returning it once more to the cold.
Serving:
Reheat gently and taste for seasoning.
Rectify acidity, saltiness, and richness carefully with a small amount of freshly squeezed lemon juice (approximately 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon per serving), probably a little more diluted miso, and a generous drizzle of high-quality Extra Virgin Olive Oil (approximately 1/2 to 1 tablespoon per serving). For the best flavor, add these ingredients to the goulash after it has been heated through, mixing them into individual servings as you go, since they degrade with heat.
Garnish with a generous sprinkle of fresh parsley, fresh marjoram, and/or fresh cilantro.
A close-up look at the rich, comforting texture of the finished goulash. The soy curls have absorbed the paprika-infused gravy beautifully.Serve with our naturally vegan hasidic water challah, fresh whole-grain bread, boiled potatoes, whole-wheat tagliatelle or farfel, a pasta called tarhonya in Hungary and “egg barley” in the United States. And don’t forget a leafy green salad on the side!
Optionally and utterly unorthodoxly, you could add a dollop of soy yoghurt on top.
A classic Viennese pairing: hearty goulash with a side of rustic whole-grain rye bread and a cold beer (a 0.0% beer by Stiegl, an independent local brewery).
LET’S STAY IN TOUCH
If you’d like to hear from me now and then, sign up below.
As an unrestrained foodnik in Vienna — a city steeped in Jewish history and haunted by Freud — I use this non-profit blog to unearth the lost foodways of pre-Shoah Jewish Vienna while riffing on today’s culinary trends. View all posts by Nino Shaye Weiss →
To ensure your visit to Jewish Viennese Food is as delightful and seamless as possible, this site employs technologies like “cookies,” processing any personal data strictly to the technically indispensable extent for understanding Browse patterns and operating its features. Your thoughtful consent allows all features to unfold as intended. Should you prefer not to consent, certain functionalities may, alas, prove less eager to perform.
Functional
Always active
The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
Preferences
The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
Statistics
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes.The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
Marketing
The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.